David Smith
On 21st March, I joined an enthusiastic party of Friends who were to be conducted around the medieval town walls by the entertaining and ever informative Fiona Gale, the retired Denbighshire County Archaeologist. Having obtained the keys from the library – a returnable deposit is required – we set off up a steep and narrow alley. It opened out onto the twin-towered Burgess Gate, a very fine example of a fortified entrance to a town.
It was built as part of the outer defences of Denbigh Castle between 1282 and 1294. The original defensive features are still in evidence, such as murder-holes, the portcullis and side facing arrow slits. Fiona unlocked one of its towers to reveal a roofless interior and partly ruined walls. The mode of their massive construction was thus revealed. Two sturdy walls were built in the usual manner and formed the planned thickness. Into the gap between them was poured a mixture of hot mortar and rough stones, which on cooling consolidated into a mass as hard as stone. This kind of building was evidently known as grouting.
The rocky outcrop that is home to Denbigh’s castle and town walls was once the site of a stronghold belonging to Welsh prince Dafydd ap Gruffydd, though the remains that stand today are the work of English king Edward I. Built around 1285, Denbigh’s walls were constructed before the castle that sits inside them, presumably to protect the workforce from attacks by native forces.
From the Burgess Gate a lowered section of the wall runs eastwards to where a gate has to be unlocked to access the further virtually intact walls. They continue to the Goblin Tower, a name that rather disappointingly refers to a nearby long-gone dwelling called Gobelin Cottage, rather than a malevolent humanoid of local legend. For the more intrepid explorer, a lengthy winding staircase leads to the well at the bottom of the tower.
The Goblin Tower is remarkable for the skilful arrangement by which it was made to include and protect the well that lay outside the town walls. Sieges could last for months at a time; therefore a good clean supply of water was essential. Although there was a well within the Castle itself, this often dried up in the summer months. The well in the Goblin Tower, however, would have provided water all year round.
In 1646, during the height of the English Civil War, the royalist garrison at Denbigh Castle was besieged for six months by the parliamentarian forces. In an attempt to cut off the Royalists’ water supply, the parliamentarians bombarded the tower. Cannon balls have been found still embedded in the wall. The garrison only surrendered in October 1646 following honourable terms and direct orders from Charles I. After the disastrous battle of Rowton Moor in September 1645, Denbigh Castle had afforded a two-night refuge for the vanquished monarch and perhaps earned his gratitude. Denbigh thus became the last fortress to hold out for the king.
Beyond the Goblin Tower, the walls are overgrown and inaccessible but the path continues to an exit gate near the castle. In 1659, the castle was ‘slighted’ to prevent further military use and the town walls were allowed to fall into ruin. The townsfolk had long since abandoned their inconvenient fortress-borough and moved to easier conditions outside the town walls. A surviving feature is St Hilary’s Tower with the remnants of the church still attached to its eastern side.
Nearby are the ruined walls of the Earl of Leicester’s Church which as Fiona explained in her usual lucid style was commissioned in 1578 by Elizabeth I’s favourite, Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester. He intended it to be a grand Protestant cathedral, but construction stopped in 1584 due to ‘financial issues’ and his death in 1588. Judging by the size of the lawn enclosed by the walls, it would have been a hugely impressive structure.
So ended our fascinating tour of what, in my opinion, is a rival to Chester’s walls that I never knew existed until now. No river, of course, but lovely countryside views. It is unfortunate that the local council seems reluctant to publicise this hidden gem. I imagine this is because of the uneven paths and a few steep sections, not to mention the lack of disabled access.
Its opening times are
1st April – 31st October
10am to 5pm (closed Tues-Wed)
1st November – 31st March
10am to 4pm (closed Mon-Thur)
Closed 24, 25, 26 December and 1 January
Last admission to the wall walks is 3pm.
Taith Gerdded Drwy Hanes yn Teithio Muriau Canoloesol Dinbych
David Smith
Ar Fawrth 21ain, ymunais â pharti brwdfrydig o Gyfeillion a oedd i gael eu tywys o amgylch muriau canoloesol y dref gan y Fiona Gale ddifyr a gwybodus bob amser, Archeolegydd Sir Dinbych wedi ymddeol. Ar ôl cael yr allweddi o’r llyfrgell – mae angen blaendal ad-daladwy – fe gychwynnon ni i fyny lôn serth a chul. Roedd yn agor allan i Borth y Bwrdeisiaid â dau dyr, enghraifft dda iawn o fynedfa gaerog i dref.
Fe’i hadeiladwyd fel rhan o amddiffynfeydd allanol Castell Dinbych rhwng 1282 a 1294. Mae’r nodweddion amddiffynnol gwreiddiol yn dal i fod yn amlwg, fel tyllau llofruddiaeth, y porthcwlis a’r holltau saethau sy’n wynebu’r ochr. Datgloodd Fiona un o’i dyrau i ddatgelu tu mewn heb do a muriau wedi’u hadfeilio’n rhannol. Felly datgelwyd dull eu hadeiladwaith enfawr. Adeiladwyd dwy wal gadarn yn y modd arferol a ffurfiodd y trwch a gynlluniwyd. I’r bwlch rhyngddynt tywalltwyd cymysgedd o forter poeth a cherrig garw, a wrth oeri fe wnaethant gyfuno’n fàs mor galed â charreg. Mae’n amlwg bod y math hwn o adeilad yn cael ei adnabod fel growtio.
Ar un adeg, roedd y graig greigiog sy’n gartref i gastell a muriau tref Dinbych yn safle cadarnle a oedd yn perthyn i’r tywysog Cymreig Dafydd ap Gruffydd, er mai gwaith y brenin Seisnig Edward I yw’r olion sy’n sefyll heddiw. Wedi’u hadeiladu tua 1285, adeiladwyd muriau Dinbych cyn y castell sydd y tu mewn iddynt, yn ôl pob tebyg i amddiffyn y gweithlu rhag ymosodiadau gan luoedd brodorol.
O Borth y Bwrdeisiaid mae rhan is o’r wal yn rhedeg tua’r dwyrain i ble mae’n rhaid datgloi giât i gael mynediad at y muriau pellach sydd bron yn gyfan. Maent yn parhau i Dŵr y Coblynnod, enw sy’n cyfeirio’n eithaf siomedig at annedd gerllaw sydd wedi mynd ers tro o’r enw Bwthyn y Goblynnod, yn hytrach na dynol maleisus o chwedl leol. I’r archwiliwr mwy dewr, mae grisiau hir, troellog yn arwain at y ffynnon ar waelod y tŵr.
Mae Tŵr y Coblynnod yn nodedig am y trefniant medrus y gwnaed ef drwyddo i gynnwys ac amddiffyn y ffynnon a oedd y tu allan i furiau’r dref. Gallai gwarchaeau bara am fisoedd ar y tro; felly roedd cyflenwad da, glân o ddŵr yn hanfodol. Er bod ffynnon o fewn y Castell ei hun, byddai hon yn aml yn sychu yn ystod misoedd yr haf. Fodd bynnag, byddai’r ffynnon yn Nhŵr y Coblynnod wedi darparu dŵr drwy gydol y flwyddyn.
Ym 1646, yn ystod uchafbwynt Rhyfel Cartref Lloegr, cafodd garsiwn y brenhinwyr yng Nghastell Dinbych ei warchae am chwe mis gan luoedd y seneddwyr. Mewn ymgais i dorri cyflenwad dŵr y Brenhinwyr i ffwrdd, bomiodd y seneddwyr y tŵr. Mae peli canon wedi’u canfod yn dal i fod wedi’u hymgorffori yn y wal. Dim ond ym mis Hydref 1646 y ildiodd y garsiwn yn dilyn telerau anrhydeddus a gorchmynion uniongyrchol gan Siarl I. Ar ôl brwydr drychinebus Rowton Moor ym mis Medi 1645, roedd Castell Dinbych wedi cynnig lloches dwy noson i’r brenin a orchfygwyd ac efallai wedi ennill ei ddiolchgarwch. Felly daeth Dinbych yn gaer olaf i ddal gafael ar y brenin.
Y tu hwnt i Dŵr y Coblynnod, mae’r muriau wedi gordyfu ac yn anhygyrch ond mae’r llwybr yn parhau i giât allanfa ger y castell. Ym 1659, cafodd y castell ei ‘ddinistrio’ i atal defnydd milwrol pellach a gadawyd i furiau’r dref adfeilio. Roedd trigolion y dref wedi cefnu ar eu caer-fwrdeistref anghyfleus ers tro byd ac wedi symud i amodau haws y tu allan i furiau’r dref. Nodwedd sydd wedi goroesi yw Tŵr Sant Hilary gyda gweddillion yr eglwys yn dal i fod ynghlwm wrth ei ochr ddwyreiniol.
Gerllaw mae muriau adfeiliedig Eglwys Iarll Caerlŷr a gomisiynwyd, fel yr eglurodd Fiona yn ei steil eglur arferol, ym 1578 gan ffefryn Elisabeth I, Robert Dudley, Iarll Caerlŷr. Roedd yn bwriadu iddi fod yn gadeirlan Brotestannaidd fawreddog, ond daeth y gwaith adeiladu i ben ym 1584 oherwydd ‘materion ariannol’ a’i farwolaeth ym 1588. A barnu wrth faint y lawnt a amgylchynwyd gan y muriau, byddai wedi bod yn strwythur hynod drawiadol.
Felly daeth ein taith ddiddorol i ben o’r hyn, yn fy marn i, sy’n gystadleuydd i furiau Caer nad oeddwn i erioed yn gwybod ei fod yn bodoli tan nawr. Dim afon, wrth gwrs, ond golygfeydd cefn gwlad hyfryd. Mae’n anffodus bod y cyngor lleol yn ymddangos yn amharod i gyhoeddi’r trysor cudd hwn. Dw i’n dychmygu bod hyn oherwydd y llwybrau anwastad ac ychydig o rannau serth, heb sôn am y diffyg mynediad i bobl anabl.
Ei oriau agor yw
1af Ebrill – 31ain Hydref
10am i 5pm (ar gau Mawrth-Mercher)
1af Tachwedd – 31ain Mawrth
10am i 4pm (ar gau Llun-Iau)
Ar gau 24, 25, 26 Rhagfyr ac 1 Ionawr
Mynediad olaf i’r teithiau cerdded ar y muriau yw 3pm.