Author: Adam and Charles Black (Firm)
Publisher: London : A. and C. Black, 1897.
This interesting relic of the late Victorian era appears to have been researched and written by its two publishers, or at least that is what is implied in the book. Perhaps they hired an anonymous hack! I have made the following selections from the pages relating to our National Landscape:
“Moel Fammau may be ascended from Mold in about six miles, half the way being by the Ruthin Road to the ‘Loggerheads Inn,’ that boasts a signboard by Wilson, whence the route to the top can be made out. From the Loggerheads
there is a pretty walk called the Leet (4 m.) by the Alyn, its course here disappearing under ground for about half a mile, to the station beyond Mold, Rhydymwyn (pronounced Hreed-e-mooin), from which runs a rather shorter way up Moel Fammau by the village of Cilcain, notable for the magnificent carved oak roof of its church, brought from Basingwerke Abbey.
“At Nannerch, the next station, we are below Moel Arthur, another summit of this range, crowned by one of the strongest of the entrenchments above mentioned. Another of them, Pen y Cloddiau, is nearer Caerwys station, a mile to the north of which stands Caerwys, believed to have been a Roman station,
and once celebrated for its Eisteddfodau, or meetings of the Bards. Near it is a beautiful wooded dingle called Maes Mynan Wort, where is said to have been a residence of the last native prince Llewelyn ab Gruffydd. All this country, it will be seen, though neglected by tourists, is rich in memories of the past and in scenery that anywhere else would count as very attractive. On the right hand, the Halkin Mountain, riddled by mines and quarries, separates this valley from the coast. Turning round a break in the hills, the railway enters the Vale of Clwyd, and passing Bodfari station (from which may best be ascended Moel y Parc, last of that chain of heights), soon reaches Denbigh”.
The writer is somewhat dismissive of the Vale of Clwyd – “This valley has been so highly, and even extravagantly eulogised, that strangers may find its beauties fail to satisfy their anticipations. It presents a scene of rich cultivation and tranquil beauty, but has no features of grandeur and sublimity; and for high and romantic interest is not to be compared with the glens and valleys in the counties of Merioneth, Carnarvon, Cardigan, and Glamorgan; but in its own style is very pleasing”.
Moving towards the north coast he comes to Dyserth: “Dyserth (Red Lion Inn) is about 4 miles from Rhyl direct by the new road over the Gladstone Bridge, and some 3 miles to the east of Rhuddlan. On the road from the latter is passed Bodrhyddan, an Elizabethan red brick mansion containing a fine collection of armour and carved furniture, but this is not open to the public, though the grounds are. The lion of Dyserth is a few remnants of its Castle on a height commanding a wide prospect. This was a fortress of great antiquity. Henry III strengthened it in 1241, but in 1261 it was besieged and nearly demolished by Llewelyn the Great. Einion, a distinguished Welshman, having been slain here, a sculptured cross was erected to his memory, of which the shaft now forms the stile of Dyserth Churchyard, where is another cross of curious workmanship and unknown date. The church has an ancient east window said to come from Basingwerke Abbey”.
“A mile behind Dyserth is a cascade, upon a small stream flowing from a spring called Ffynnon Asa, or St. Asaph’s Well, once accounted sacred, and having many votaries, like that of St. Winefred at Holywell, but now used to turn a mill. The beauty of this fall depends a good deal on the water supply, as Dr. Johnson found, though the stream is no longer diverted to the use of the lead mines here, which, once the richest in Wales, were flooded out about twenty years ago. A mile or so further behind on the heights, across which we might reach Holywell, is Newmarket, a village with the dignity of a market town, and once, like its English namesake, a place of turf celebrity. It is still noted for its Carnedd or tumulus, one of the largest in North Wales, which covers
nearly an acre of ground, on the summit of a hill called Yr Cop”.
The entry for Llangollen notes that it has a population of 5500 and has several places at which to stay, namely “Hand, Royal (C.), Grapes, Eagles, Ponsonby Arms, Eivion (Private and Boarding-House), Dee (Temperance)”.
“This town has long been a favourite resort of tourists, not so much for its personal attractions as for the charm of its surroundings. It is situated in a narrow valley, watered by the Dee, in the most picturesque part of the hill-country, as opposed to the mountain-districts, of North Wales. The most remarkable object in this part of the vale is the range of lime-stone rocks, called Eglwyseg, which form on the north side a singular background, contrasting strangely with the cultivated meadows and wooded slopes. These rocks are bold and naked, and, from their peculiarity of colour, when their huge front is lighted up by the sun, the effect is extremely curious and imposing. Between these rocks and the town rises the isolated hill crowned by Castell Dinas Brân.
“Llangollen is a neat and clean town, and in general quiet and comfortable, though in the summer the prevalence of cheap excursionists interferes a little with the latter charms. The hotel charges are reasonable enough, and there is no lack of good private lodgings and apartments. It is celebrated for the
three somewhat incongruous products of beer, flannel, and slate.
“From the railway station, which is on the north side of the river, we pass into the town over the Bridge, long regarded as one of the Seven Wonders of Wales. It was originally erected about the middle of the 14th century by Dr. John Trevor, Bishop of St. Asaph, and consisted of four irregular narrow-
pointed arches. An additional arch, which spoils the general effect, had to be made for the railway to pass under, and in 1873 the bridge was considerably widened. The view from it, both up and down the river, is of great beauty.
“Miss Seward, Lockhart, and other bygone writers, waxed enthusiastic in Llangollen’s praises; and Mr. Ruskin says: “The whole valley, when I once got up past the works’ (whatever the accursed business of them), on the noble hillside seemed to me entirely lovely in its gentle wildness, and struck me more because our Westmoreland ones are mere clefts between disorderly humps of rock; but the Vale of Llangollen is a true valley between ranges of grandly formed hills, peculiar above Vale Crucis in the golden mosaic of gorse on their
emerald turf, where we have nothing but heath and ling. The Dee itself is a quite perfect mountain-stream, and the village of Llangollen, when I first knew it fifty years ago, one of the most beautiful and delightful in Wales or anywhere else.”
Once more, I am grateful for the ability to download a venerable book from HathiTrust Digital Library. (https://www.hathitrust.org).
Y Rugiar Ddu ar Fryniau Clwyd
Anya Wicikowski, Swyddog Cadwraeth, RSPB
Mae’r Rugiar Ddu’n aderyn yr ucheldir unigryw gyda phlu du amrywiol, cynffon wen, ac “eiliau” coch llachar. Mae’r cofnod cyntaf o’r Rugiar Ddu yng Nghymru’n dyddio’n ôl i ddechrau’r Oes Fesolithig; mae eu poblogaeth wedi codi a gostwng dros y blynyddoedd, ac mae bron i dri chwarter y boblogaeth yng Nghymru bellach ym Mryniau Clwyd a Dyffryn Dyfrdwy.
Mae’r aderyn eiconig hwn sy’n byw ar ucheldiroedd Cymru wedi dal dychymyg pobl ers canrifoedd. Yn ystod y tymor bridio, bydd y gwrywod yn ymgynnull yn eu mannau dynodedig ac yn gwneud synau byrlymu a hisian, gelwir hyn yn aml yn “ddefod baru”. Maent yn gwneud hyn er mwyn dod o hyd i bartner, dim ond y gwryw mwyaf trawiadol fydd yn trosglwyddo ei enynnau i’r genhedlaeth nesaf. Mae’n olygfa hudolus ac yn werth codi’n gynnar i’w gweld. Nid yw’n syndod bod yr adar carismataidd hyn yn ymddangos mewn chwedlau, gyda straeon o’r Rugiar Ddu fel ysbrydion yn gwarchod y rhostiroedd.
Heddiw, rydym yn dechrau deall bod mwy o arwyddocâd i hyn na’r disgwyl. Mae gofynion cynefinol y Rugiar Ddu’n gymhleth iawn, sef tiroedd gwlyb, rhostiroedd agored, ac ymylon coetir. Mae llawer o fuddion ynghlwm â rheoli’r ardaloedd hyn ar gyfer y Rugiar Ddu, gan gynnwys storio carbon, cynefinoedd ar gyfer bywyd gwyllt eraill, ac atal tannau gwyllt. Felly, bydd gwarchod yr aderyn unigryw hwn yn cefnogi pobl a bywyd gwyllt.
Yn anffodus, yn yr un modd â nifer o rywogaethau uwchdir eraill yng Nghymru, mae’r Rugiar Ddu’n dirywio. Mae amrywiaeth a phoblogaeth y Rugiar Ddu yng Nghymru wedi gostwng yn llawer is na’n targedau cenedlaethol. Gyda chyllid drwy’r Rhaglen Rhwydweithiau Natur, cronfa a ddarperir gan y Gronfa Dreftadaeth ar ran Llywodraeth Cymru, mae’r Gymdeithas Frenhinol er Gwarchod Adar (RSPB) yn gobeithio diogelu’r Rugiar Ddu a helpu i reoli’r uwchdiroedd mewn modd cynaliadwy. Er mwyn cyflawni hyn, bydd yn rhaid gweithio â phartneriaid megis Tîm Tirwedd Cenedlaethol Bryniau Clwyd a Dyffryn Dyfrdwy ac, wrth gwrs, ffermwyr a pherchnogion tir ar draws ardaloedd y Rugiar Ddu. Gyda’n gilydd, gallwn warchod yr aderyn hwn a’r buddion sydd ynghlwm â’u rheoli ar gyfer cenedlaethau’r dyfodol.